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The beach at Noordhoek
Columns, Travel Chat / Oct. 30, 2012 / by Caroline / 6 Comments

The right address

Louise Marsland

LOUISE MARSLAND on her new life in Cape Town and quirky, quaint places to visit

 Let’s face it, Capetonians have a reputation for being geographical snobs. If you don’t live in the right area or attended the right school as a kid, you may find it hard to make friends in the business and suburban playgrounds. And if you’re English, you live in the southern suburbs – no further than Kenilworth (that’s Upper Kenilworth dahling) and ‘above the line’ (the railway line that separates the more affluent from the less affluent suburbs throughout the southern suburbs of Cape Town).

Most have heard about the ‘Boerewors Curtain’ that mostly the Afrikaans speakers live behind in Cape Town’s northern suburbs.

I was tickled to hear from friends living in Noordhoek, that they live behind the ‘Lentil Curtain’, denoting the more bohemian, organic types that allegedly inhabit that side of the rock.

Well bugger Upper and Lower Claremont or above the line or the excesses of the Camps Bay strip (also known as the Botox Curtain) – I’m proud to live behind the Snoek Curtain!

I grew up in Fish Hoek and love the transformation that Kalk Bay and Simonstown have undergone in the last decade or so. Despite the rebuilding chaos that is Main Road, Kalk Bay, at present, I have haunted that suburb for its quirky fashion boutiques, antique shops, bric-a-brac and restaurants, for a decade, making special pilgrimages for a few hours on my business trips down from Joburg.

And who hasn’t got a memory from the indestructible Brass Bell, still perched over the sea, still surviving the annual storms that take out at least one deck at a time, legend has it.

A more recent favourite of course is the Harbour House precinct, with fish ‘n chips at all prices for everyone, with the authentic, working harbor and fishing boats bring in fresh catches every day, adding colour.

And despite the parking hassles, since moving down here, we try make a weekly pilgrimage to the Olympia Bakery, which has handy parking just off the Boyes Drive alternative route, for their breads and the occasional cupcake.

Also on my New Year’s resolution list is to make sure I attend at least one of ex-Fair Lady editor Ann Donald’s many activities at the Kalk Bay Books and Annex restaurant. I’m a huge fan of independent book shops too and will make a special effort to support the independents, so that our already stratified society isn’t homogenised any further!

So, apart from the wonderfully authentic Kalk Bay strip and the family-friendly, unpretentious Fish Hoek beach, I really couldn’t live anywhere else in the Cape. After 25 years working in Joburg, we want the sea view – daily, not another suburb, no matter how leafy and green and convenient to ‘town’.

You see, after living in Joburg with the horrendous traffic jams and long daily commute to work, we scoff and laugh rather sarcastically at the distances down here and at what Capetonians call traffic!

And I’m not alone in this – I know of several media and digital peeps who have relocated to launch their own businesses in Cape Town over the last couple of years and have all bought in either Kalk Bay, Fish Hoek or Noordhoek recently… Sssshhh!

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Written by: Caroline

  • Sally Whitely

    I too wish I could live in Cape Town and especially enjoyed Noordhoek where my husband and I stayed on a recent visit. We booked in at a place called Sacred Mountain Lodge which, sad to say, was a rip-off in terms of being expensive and not good value for money at all, but we WILL be back. Next time we will simply stay somewhere else though. I look forward to reading a few reviews from Ms Marsland and other contributors to Travelwrite to give readers a better idea of which places to go to and which places to avoid. I definitely intend to visit the Kalk Bay Bookstore on my next visit too. One place I can personally recommend for lunch is Steenberg … gorgeous views, fabulous food …

  • Sue

    Welcome Louise! You’re living on the right side of the mountain …. my worst nightmare is that Kalk Bay ends up looking like Camps Bay!

  • Sue

    PS you must try Theresa’s Restaurant in Kalk Bay… That’s the best kept secret.. Theresa is quite formiddable hold the fort in her kitchen, arms akimbo, hair flying, but her food is fabulous… succulent fresh Kob, perfectly cooked fillet, and real Cape speciality dishes … bredies, pickled fish etc. It’s the lurid pink house on the left at the beginning of Boyes Drive. And don’t expect upmarket decor.. her style is eclectic in a vintage art deco, secondhand shop, pot plants in tin cans style.

    • Carolyn

      I totally agree about Theresa’s Sue. She is fab, fab, fab and everybody’s favourite in Kalk Bay. The Galley on the beach in Fish Hoek is pretty good too.

  • Georgina Greeff

    Oh bloody hell – I live behind the boerewors curtain and love it! whahahahaha

  • Lesley estelle oosterbroek

    I’ve always said it’s the only SA city worth living in and I have yet to find anything that beats it. San Francisco comes close, but it’s not Africa! :-)


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